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'大一茶博士,金骏眉,山头茶,老班章,古树茶,普洱茶,武夷山,凤凰,冰岛,品茶,武夷,绿茶,倚邦,川茶,茶里,品味,班章,易武,普洱,牌坊'

'茶为国饮、茶为雅事、佳茗似佳人⋯⋯茶人谈茶，必出此言，自豪之情溢于言表！然而，在诸多形容词背后，茶事之苦涩、茶人之狭隘、茶界之陋习，真实而广泛地存在！茶之殇，及人及茶及格局，一言难尽！之一：浮夸风一杯...'

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'<p><span><img src=\'https://www.puerwang.cn/uploadfile/2018/0523/a3d97eb8.jpg\' /></span></p><p><span>茶为国饮、茶为雅事、佳茗似佳人</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>茶人谈茶，必出此言，自豪之情溢于言表！然而，在诸多形容词背后，茶事之苦涩、茶人之狭隘、茶界之陋习，真实而广泛地存在！茶之殇，及人及茶及格局，一言难尽！</span></p><p><strong><span>之一：浮夸风</span></strong></p><p><span>一杯茶，每个人都能品出自己的味道，这是最直接也最真实的感官体验。可是，很多人将这种简单的泡饮行为，上升为高深莫测的神秘之举。</span></p><p><span>天津有一奇人，每与人泡茶，必手裹沉重大念珠，边掐指边念念有声："茶气到胸口没有？""茶气到头顶没有？""茶气到</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>"一泡茶下来，你不岔气就是定力高手！</span></p><p><span>某知名教授，谈及某卫视开设茶频道之举，不见半点实操之言，全是阿谀奉承之词："此举是响应习主席\'品茶品味品人生\'的最新指示，落实\'茶为国饮\'与\'以茶养廉\'国家战略的重大举措；是某卫视一大开拓创新之举，我们要运用好新一轮改革成果，实现中华茶叶伟大复兴的中国梦"</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>短短几句话中，"最新指示、国家战略、重大举措、伟大复兴"等政治辞令层出不穷，但是细观内容，无非是拍完国家领导马屁，再拍电视台马屁！让人无法容忍贵为教授，何以如此没有节操，奴颜媚骨尽显！</span></p><p><span>浮夸之风，曾经甚嚣尘上，所有高大上的词语都曾被反复使用。无论尊贵，不离高雅；不是皇家贡品，必为稀世珍藏！这是茶之殇，还是体制之殇！但是，随着市场的改变，假大空已经走到了尽头。很多人还沉浸在皇帝的新装中骄傲地裸奔，却不知道沉默的大多数早已不再是那曾经乐于敷衍的看客。他们给浮夸者一个鄙视的背影，转而与求实的探路者同行。这些与浮夸者背道而驰的行者，才是践行复兴梦想的真茶人！</span></p><p><strong><span>之二：伪茶人</span></strong></p><p><span>何谓茶人？圈内曾经有过激烈的争论，意见不一！而对于伪茶人的种种言行举止，大家却惊人的统一！除了周重林兄《茶人装</span><span>13</span><span>指南》外，娄自田兄的《城里的茶人》与《乡下的茶人》，都让人称快一时！</span></p><p><span>茶圣陆羽眼中的茶适合"精行俭德"之人，也就是指那些追求"至道"的贤德之士！百度释义："精行"是指行事而言，茶人应该严格按照社会道德规范行事，不逾轨；而"俭德"是就立德而说，茶人应该时刻恪守传统道德精神，不懈怠。参照这两者的反面："妄行丧德"是不是可以称之为"伪茶人"，刀客不敢妄自定论！但是伪茶人确实有很多耐人寻味的地方！</span></p><p><span>之形：伪茶人喜欢装</span><span>13</span><span>，这是圈内共知之事！带个帽子、取个外号、挂个链子、披套长袍马褂，伪茶人喜欢先武装好外表，再行装</span><span>13</span><span>之事！</span><span>据好友爆料：某大师看教徒泡茶，训斥到："你注水是从死门进入的，这样的茶汤出来，气的运行会不畅！"便亲自示范，出汤后问众教徒气是否在</span><span>xxx(</span><span>省去若干字</span><span>)</span><span>，一教徒诚实回答没感觉。大师低吟道："你感觉不到，是因为你后面无遮挡，气溜走了。你看我背后有面墙，气流就很明显。"教徒似懂非懂地点头自语："以后喝茶要背一堵墙才行</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>"</span></p><p><span>之行：伪茶人喜欢拜师，凡是可以利用之人，皆可为师，甚至已故之人也不放过；实在不能拜师的，就凭空称拜对方的师父为师，从而间接搭上师兄师妹之缘，继而行谋利图名之便。伪茶人还喜欢抢着发言，不管是不是自己清楚的，只要有机会发言便不放过；发言中除了恭维对方，还不忘标榜自己；只管长篇大论，也不管对方是否听得云山雾罩。</span></p><p><span>之德：伪茶人不喜欢"俭德"，他更喜欢"饰德"后的"兼得"！何谓"饰德"？就是装饰得很俭德，目的就是为了名利双收、做了婊子还能立牌坊！某伪茶人为了打动一茶业组织领导，除了极尽溜须拍马之能事，还将自己标榜为："为恢复</span><span>xx</span><span>茶传统制作工艺为己任！"除了粉饰自己的真实目的，还尽量多出现在领导面前。凡是领导出现的地方，哪怕远隔千万里，也要赶过去露个脸、合个影，发在微信圈里混淆视听。</span></p><p><span>茶界之大，真伪难辨；时间之利，善恶自分！天下茶人是一家，只希望伪茶人少一些，还茶界清新纯粹之气！</span></p><p><strong><span>之三：山寨习</span></strong></p><p><span>"山寨"一词，已经与"中国制造"划上了等号！之所以如此，只因中国人推崇的创造是"拿来主义"！凡是于己有利的东西，均可拿来，稍加改头换面便是自己的。知识产权保护，在中国喊了很多年，只可惜这是一个经济的年代，所有人只看你手里有没有钱，从不管你的钱干不干净！</span></p><p><span>茶界的山寨习，已经成为这个行业的潜规则和致命枷锁！市场上一旦某个品类走俏，便有无数非原产地的茶叶被加工成俏销品类，进入原产地冒充正品销售，利润非常可观。这几年金骏眉热销，山寨金骏眉便雨后春笋、铺天盖地而来；中国大多数产茶区都出现了将本地茶改做成山寨金骏眉。刀客曾经遇一企业家前辈，坐拥亿万身家，也准备向茶界发展。深夜畅谈之时，突然记起有武夷茶商曾送他一袋金骏眉，便找出来分享；他除了拿出来一袋金黄色的山寨金骏眉外，还被灌输了一肚子金银铜三种骏眉的虚假品鉴信息：什么一芽一叶、一芽两叶</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>让人哭笑不得！</span></p><p><span>山寨，在普洱茶里曾经是区别不同山头茶的主要名词！什么老班章、老曼娥、贺开、易武、倚邦、冰岛</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>都是相应产地山寨的名称。而今随着古树茶的疯狂，山寨已经成为动词：掺假。如果不是亲眼所见茶叶制作全过程，并第一时间交割，谁都无法保证自己收购的古树茶是不是纯料。也许只在你一打盹的片刻，你的古树茶很可能就变成了台地茶的山寨品！</span></p><p><span>最可怕的山寨习是：一座山做六类茶，不管黑白红，无论青黄绿！只要你想要，没有做不来，给钱就行！刀客曾经接到一位四川茶商的电话，他说自己的绿茶园，土壤检测结果比武夷山还多了一种元素，不知道可不可以做岩茶？他的想法固然可笑，但是掩饰不了茶界的普遍现状：为了眼前的利益，我们可以抛弃几千年的传统和老祖先的遗训。中国茶，之所以无法实现往日的伟大复兴，其根本原因在于信仰的缺失，对金钱的渴望远远超越了对使命的担当、对茶祖的敬畏！</span></p><p><span>除了山寨茶类，更多的山寨茶品牌、茶产品，也是层出不穷！你有赛珍珠，我有金凤凰；你出钓鱼台，我来大剧院；你是醉西施，我就赛貂蝉</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>如此山寨单品，不一而足。很多品牌企划部，整天在做的事情就是买来别人的产品，在包装与名称上稍加改造，便搞出自己所谓的新品，还美其名曰：走别人的路，让别人无路可走！这样的企划部，以后都可以抱团成立中国茶叶山寨中心！</span></p><p><span>很多人很多企业为山寨之举，罗列了一大堆借口：山寨是成长的必经之路、模仿是最稳妥的创新</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>委婉动人又掷地有声！这种自欺却不能欺人的理由，让茶行业走到了今天这样同质化、低水平的格局。</span></p><p><span>山寨习不止，中国茶难兴！刀客看到一些很可喜的现象：一些不懂茶的年轻人，正在将自己的理解与表达融入茶的创新；他们跳出茶专业，将属于自己的青春记忆通过茶这个载体去传播：大一茶博士、联邦调茶局、张三疯</span><span>⋯⋯</span><span>他们才是中国茶创新与复兴的希望！</span></p><p><span>文</span><span>/</span><span>徐方</span></p><p><strong><span>特注</span></strong><strong>：</strong><span>《</span><span>》《</span><span>51</span><span>普洱网》授权网登载，网系《》战略合作单位。</span></p><p><span>更多关于茶的内容，请点击</span><strong><span>茶相关资讯</span></strong></p>'

'大一茶博士,金骏眉,山头茶,老班章,古树茶,普洱茶,武夷山,凤凰,冰岛,品茶,武夷,绿茶,倚邦,川茶,茶里,品味,班章,易武,普洱,牌坊'

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'茶之殇,双刀客的江湖问_普洱茶新闻_中华普洱茶网'

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'茶为国饮、茶为雅事、佳茗似佳人⋯⋯茶人谈茶，必出此言，自豪之情溢于言表！然而，在诸多形容词背后，茶事之苦涩、茶人之狭隘、茶界之陋习，真实而广泛地存在！茶之殇，及人及茶及格局，一言难尽！之一：浮夸风一杯...'

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'/puerchaxinwen/a-26658-[page].html'

''

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