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'普洱茶好喝“饼”难藏'

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'普洱茶,普洱,生茶,名山,茶树,先生,古树,树龄,乔木,勐海,制作,陷阱,种子,原料,不同,过程,老树,茶庄,专家,茶厂'

'栗强介绍哪种茶值得收藏八年前云南马帮进京带来了普洱热。无论接下来是褒是贬，许多年过去了，普洱茶这种可以喝的古董成了茶叶收藏的主要形式。然而在普洱茶走进千家万户的同时，我们又对它了解多少呢？人们对普洱茶...'

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'2018-05-10 09:36:02'

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'<p><img src=\'https://www.puerwang.cn/uploadfile/2018/0418/68e4f0b0.jpg\' /><br>栗强介绍哪种茶值得收藏</p><p>八年前云南马帮进京带来了普洱热。无论接下来是褒是贬，许多年过去了，普洱茶这种可以喝的古董成了茶叶收藏的主要形式。然而在普洱茶走进千家万户的同时，我们又对它了解多少呢？人们对普洱茶的收藏又存在多少误解呢？为此，我们请普洱茶品鉴专家栗强先生介绍关于普洱茶收藏的见解。<br>不是所有的"饼"都值得收藏<br>有人懂得好茶的色香味美，有人熟知老茶的保健功效。然而究竟什么是好茶？好茶是否有一个统一的标准？普洱茶越放越好喝吗？这要从普洱茶的年代划分谈起。<br>茶史上把1733年普洱府同庆号茶庄开张到新中国成立之间生产的茶称为号级茶。如今的茶饼收藏一般来说也就以1733年为上限,在此之前的所谓高古茶基本已退出市场流通。号级茶由老字号茶庄经营，它的特点是：原料都是乔木生，茶树由种子种植，没有扦插，茶饼制作中没有其他茶种混杂。茶饼的好坏取决于植物学、制作学、流通和仓储过程几个方面。植物学属性保证了原材料的品质。茶树分为乔木和灌木两类，种子生和扦插生两种。种子生的乔木茶树每一株都有不同的味道，耐病性、抗虫、抗传染性比较强。而扦插或压条种植的普洱茶，不光是口味的丰富性比不上乔木种子生普洱茶,更有物种易退化的缺点。加上当时还没有化肥农药等化学物质污染，保证了号级茶的口味纯正、丰富。号级茶因其完全传统的手工制作工艺、优质土壤和气候条件，成为普洱茶中的贵族，拿住宅做比喻，栗先生戏称之为"别墅级普洱"。<br>直到1970年初,开始大规模拼配，这期间的茶就是印级茶。这段时间普洱茶生产由国有茶厂取代老字号茶庄，生产的茶饼用印有"茶"字印的茶纸包装。虽然方法已经不是老方法,但由于原料仍为种生型普洱茶树,加之是精采细作，制作讲究，整体水平也还不错，栗先生戏称是"公寓级普洱"。<br>国家大规模推广扦插种茶时,普洱茶的原材料进入了一个前所未有的新时期。而以1972年中国土产畜产进出口公司云南分公司正式成立为标志,由七子小黄印所开创的普洱茶大规模大范围拼配法渐成主流,也改变了自古以来的制作方法。这时的茶品都印有"云南七子饼"的字样,被称为七子饼茶,也就是栗先生戏称为"廉租房"级别的普洱茶了,其下限可到1992年为止。<br>此后的一段时期,由于化肥农药用于茶园，影响了原材料的质量，大量造假的出现，更是以假乱真，破坏了茶的纯粹性。由于利益的驱使，人们追求产量，茶树种植过密，造成土壤深耕化，普洱茶原料的质量严重下降。更严重的现象是，随着运输业的发展，一些人开始批量买进外地茶叶，掺杂进普洱茶饼中进行拼配。这一时期的普洱茶品,几乎没有收藏价值。<br>进入21世纪，一些喝过传统普洱茶的爱茶者无法忍受当时茶品的粗制滥造，他们亲自去种植、采摘，按照传统方法制作了一批由种子生出的古树和大树型普洱茶,开创了一个优质茶品的新阶段。<br>人们自古便知，优质普洱茶饼越放越有价值。但并不是所有普洱茶饼都可以放成古董。在今天,最低等级的号级茶滋味往往比不过顶级的印级茶，正如简陋的别墅并不比高级的公寓住着舒服。但一般来说,在同样存贮条件下,最差的印级茶也会胜过最好的七子饼，就像公寓毕竟要比廉租房设施好。所以，如果是没有收藏价值的普洱茶饼，无论存放多久，都不会成为好茶。<br>好茶的标准除了原料的好坏之外，还有两个关键因素：一是制成学的过程。普洱茶的发酵过程分为自然慢速常温发酵和快速人工高温发酵两种，前者是生茶，后者是熟茶。严格来说，熟茶只是新时期出现的一种新工艺，其目的是要实现茶的大众化。自古以来,具有收藏价值的是普洱生茶。这是因为,随着时间的推移，生茶中的微生物群会自然地朝着益生方向发生变化，其保健功能和口味随此进程不断提升，这就是陈化。原料不同，制作工艺不同，收藏茶的环境不同，造成茶的独特口感。举个例子,使用同一批上世纪八十年代产自勐海茶厂的普洱茶菁做成生茶与熟茶，如今生茶的市场价可能是数万元一饼，熟茶却只值一两千。可见，现在有人认为熟茶长期存放也会具备和生茶一样的升值潜力，这是认识上的误区。<br>另一个决定普洱茶是否升值的关键因素就是流通过程,也就是仓储条件是否得当。栗先生曾经亲历一件事，同一批产出的普洱茶，一部分放在北京存放，一部分放在广州的紫砂缸。六年以后，前者香味宜人，后者因潮雨期缸内四壁流水，茶受潮湿已腐化变质,可见好茶保存不当也会变得一文不值。</p><p><strong>谨防商家误导</strong></p><p>目前，茶饼收藏的一大特点是圈内流通性远远高于拍卖市场的流通性。如果没有专家长眼，您更应该认清陷阱，小心上当。栗先生总结出当下茶饼收藏交易中的<strong><span>五大陷阱</span></strong>：<br>山头陷阱。如同工艺品收藏追求名家一样，茶饼的收藏向来讲究山头。原本名山标签是茶品质的保障，然而如今名山茶不仅价格昂贵离奇，由于人们的追捧和过度采摘，其品质也已名不副实。何况还有大量外来茶源被运来加工，贴上名山茶的标签。名山茶已面目全非，名山标签已沦为商家炒作的说辞。<br>古树纯料的低价陷阱。以2012年勐海茶厂春茶收购价为例：扦插种植的毛茶十几元至四十几元一公斤；而古树茶的收购价是数千元一公斤。古树茶数量有限，能出高价买到货真价实的纯料已属不易，若卖家低价向您推销所谓古树纯料，实在是缺乏常识。<br>纯野生茶的概念。自从人类开始采茶、种茶以来，适合品饮的茶种植物已经普遍经过了人类的驯化。即使不是人工栽培的茶树，经过人类采摘等人工干预以后，也不能称为纯野生茶。市场上大量的野生茶制成品，一定程度上来说是个伪概念。<br>具体明确到几百年,甚至几千年的树龄之说,也是一种自欺欺人。一棵茶树，除非砍断，观其年轮，实际上是难以推断其具体树龄的。由于土壤贫、沃有别，同样年龄的老树树干粗细差别也很大。栗先生曾陪同几位茶学专家在一起推断一棵老树的树龄，结果居然从一百年到七百年不等。可见估算树龄是一种极其缺乏科学依据的主观判断，以此作为销售定价的标准，并不可信。<br>普洱茶收藏中一个极有趣的延展领域是茶品的包纸与内扉，不同时期使用的纸张与印刷并不相同，了解相关内容不仅能丰富我们的知识，还将在辨识茶饼真伪的过程中起到很大作用。<br>栗先生认为，远离陷阱的基本原则是：不信故事，不去猎奇。茶饼收藏首先是一种感官体验，与故事无关。要想提高鉴别力，除了必不可少的多喝多体验以外，还要多结识专家，在专家指引下达到口感过关、体感过关，真正喝明白什么是好茶。<br></p>'

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'普洱茶好喝“饼”难藏_普洱茶知识_中华普洱茶网'

'普洱茶,普洱,生茶,名山,茶树,先生,古树,树龄,乔木,勐海,制作,陷阱,种子,原料,不同,过程,老树,茶庄,专家,茶厂'

'栗强介绍哪种茶值得收藏八年前云南马帮进京带来了普洱热。无论接下来是褒是贬，许多年过去了，普洱茶这种可以喝的古董成了茶叶收藏的主要形式。然而在普洱茶走进千家万户的同时，我们又对它了解多少呢？人们对普洱茶...'

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  'total' => '请使用count标签查询',
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  array (
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)

array (
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        'list' => 'list.html',
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      'member' => 
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      'html' => 1,
      'urlrule' => 5,
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    'is_post' => 1,
    'tid' => 1,
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    'field' => 
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    'pids' => '0',
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    array (
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      'linkurl' => '',
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        'pagesize' => '20',
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      'member' => 
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    'pids' => '0',
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      'urlrule' => 5,
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    array (
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      'member' => 
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    'tid' => 1,
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    array (
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  30 => 
  array (
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    'pids' => '0',
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    'childids' => 30,
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    array (
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      'linkurl' => '',
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      'admin' => 
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      'member' => 
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    array (
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  array (
    'id' => '31',
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    'pids' => '0',
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    array (
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      'linkurl' => '',
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      array (
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        'list' => 'list.html',
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      'admin' => 
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      'member' => 
      array (
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      'html' => 1,
      'urlrule' => 5,
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    'tid' => 1,
    'url' => 'https://www.puerwang.cn/puerchajianfei/index.html',
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    'field' => 
    array (
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  ),
  32 => 
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    'pids' => '0',
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    'pdirname' => '',
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    'childids' => 32,
    'thumb' => '',
    'show' => '1',
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    array (
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      'linkurl' => '',
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      array (
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      'admin' => 
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      'member' => 
      array (
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      'urlrule' => 5,
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    'tid' => 1,
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    array (
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  33 => 
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    'pids' => '0',
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    'pdirname' => '',
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    'show' => '1',
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    array (
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      'linkurl' => '',
      'seo' => 
      array (
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      array (
        'pagesize' => '20',
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        'category' => 'category.html',
        'list' => 'list.html',
        'search' => 'search.html',
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      'admin' => 
      array (
        2 => 
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          'add' => '1',
          'edit' => '1',
          'del' => '1',
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      'member' => 
      array (
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      'html' => 1,
      'urlrule' => 5,
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    'displayorder' => '0',
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    'catids' => 
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    'is_post' => 1,
    'tid' => 1,
    'url' => 'https://www.puerwang.cn/chashangchanong/index.html',
    'total' => '请使用count标签查询',
    'field' => 
    array (
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  34 => 
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    'id' => '34',
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    'pids' => '0',
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    'childids' => 34,
    'thumb' => '',
    'show' => '1',
    'setting' => 
    array (
      'edit' => '0',
      'linkurl' => '',
      'seo' => 
      array (
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      'template' => 
      array (
        'pagesize' => '20',
        'show' => 'show.html',
        'category' => 'category.html',
        'list' => 'list.html',
        'search' => 'search.html',
      ),
      'admin' => 
      array (
        2 => 
        array (
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          'add' => '1',
          'edit' => '1',
          'del' => '1',
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      'member' => 
      array (
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      'html' => 1,
      'urlrule' => 5,
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    'displayorder' => '0',
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    'mid' => 'article',
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    'catids' => 
    array (
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    'is_post' => 1,
    'tid' => 1,
    'url' => 'https://www.puerwang.cn/chajuchaji/index.html',
    'total' => '请使用count标签查询',
    'field' => 
    array (
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'/puerchazhishi/a-14881-[page].html'

''

'https://www.puerwang.cn/puerchazhishi/a-14881.html'

array (
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  'c' => 'show',
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  'm' => 'index',
)