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'普洱茶,普洱,云南,周红,陈越,品质,黑茶,海路,越好,紧压茶,云南省,文化,独特,科学,绿茶,散茶,大叶,红茶,发酵,特点'

'　　杭海路：早就想与你对话，并就有些问题当面请教。因为我个人认为，第一，关于普洱茶的许多科学方面的问题，你的意见是最具权威性的，因为你是"云南普洱茶化学成分及质量标准的研究"项目的首席科学家，你有实验室...'

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'<p><img src=\'https://www.puerwang.cn/uploadfile/2018/0414/ebd23379.jpg\' /><br>　　杭海路：早就想与你对话，并就有些问题当面请教。因为我个人认为，第一，关于普洱茶的许多科学方面的问题，你的意见是最具权威性的，因为你是"云南普洱茶化学成分及质量标准的研究"项目的首席科学家，你有实验室和实验报告以及报告中的大量数据，同时你还在进行着新的项目研究。第二，你的一些观点和说法是非常独特的，比如，普洱茶并不是越陈越香，越陈越好等等。因为这种意见与主流理论背道而驰，说出来是要得罪人的，这不仅需要充分的科学依据，还要有胆略。</p><p>　　我要请教的第一个问题就是：为什么普洱茶不一定是越陈越香，越陈越好？</p><p>　　周红杰：我认为，任何一种普洱茶的品质都有一个最佳时期，不是越长越好。在这个时期以前，它的品质呈上升趋势，达到高峰以后，它的品质就会逐渐下降。而且，越陈越香的前提是自然缓慢发酵的普洱茶，也就是我们常说的生茶。它经过几十年的缓慢陈化而有了独特的品质。这类茶在市场上是非常少的，可作为文物收藏。但这类茶的最佳贮放期应在10-20年，再长它的品质就逐步下降了。这种茶喝年代是可以的，但要喝保健和养生，只怕是不可以的。</p><p>　　杭海路：我听说，有人对存放了70年以上的普洱茶进行了生物品质分析，其状况与朽木没有两样，怎么会有利于健康呢？可见普洱茶越陈越香，越陈越好的理论和说法是根本站不住脚的，这完全是一种误导，缺乏科学依据。另外恐怕是商业利益的驱使。</p><p>　　周红杰：在众多的普洱茶消费者中，有一些"考据"派。他们对茶的爱好如同收藏古瓷品，在某种意义上倡导引领着普洱茶的消费。而更有极端者，喝普洱茶只论年代，似乎越久越好，甚至要喝那种有"霉霜"的茶。这种认识和做法，显然是偏面和错误的。</p><p>　　杭海路：有人说，普洱茶属于黑茶，是黑茶的一种。但在你的著作中，却不是这样认为的。那么，普洱茶，在绿茶、红茶、黑茶、白茶等等类别中，到底属于哪一类茶呢？</p><p>　　周红杰：普洱茶是我国传说的十大名茶之一，主产于云南省思茅、西双版纳等地区。之所以称"普洱茶"，并不是产于普洱，而是因为普洱茶是明清时代云南茶区产品向外运销的最主要集散地，所以清代起始定名"普洱茶"，沿用至今。普洱茶不是绿茶或红茶，也不是一般人所认为的黑茶。根据2003年3月云南省标准计量局公布的标准：普洱茶是以云南省一定区域内的云南大叶种晒青毛茶为原料，经过后发酵加工成的散茶和紧压茶。其外形色泽褐红；内质汤色红浓明亮，香气独特陈香，滋味醇厚回甘，叶底褐红。按照比较科学的分类法，我国的茶叶可分为绿茶、红茶、白茶、黄茶、黑茶、普洱茶七大类，即普洱茶是单独的一类。</p><p>　　现代人所生产、消费的普洱茶始创于20世纪30年代。到了20世纪70年代，云南省一些国营茶厂受香港茶商储运普洱茶方法的启示，研究试验出使晒青茶向普洱茶快速转化的"渥堆"工艺(即用人工方法进行快速后发酵)，从而使普洱茶的生产转向了大规模的工业化。目前，普洱茶市场有"生普"、"熟普"的说法，严格说来并不科学。所谓"生普"，如果没有经过后发酵，只能视为绿茶的-种，即使它是正宗的云南大叶种晒青毛茶所制。而"熟普"也不一定就是地道的普洱茶，它必须符合云南省标准计量局公布的普洱标准。至于"十仓"、"湿仓"之说，一般指的是普洱茶制成后的仓储形式，并非普洱茶的制作工艺。</p><p>　　普洱茶基本分为两种：散茶和紧压茶。散茶按品质分为特、-、二、三、四、五、六、七、八、九、十，共十一个等级。紧压茶按形状分，主要有圆茶、贡茶、沱茶、砖茶、紧茶、方茶、竹筒香茶等，规格不一。其中，市场上常见的"七子饼茶"应属圆茶或称饼茶，因为常以七饼为一筒包装，暗喻"七子团圆"之意，故名。紧茶-般分为"心形紧茶"和"砖形紧茶"。普洱茶具有独特的"陈韵"，以汤亮、醇和、温润、香高、甘甜、纯正称奇。</p><p>　　杭海路：你常说："喝普洱茶是品茶中的最高境界!"现在在精英人群中，喝普洱、品普洱已经成为一种时尚。但有一点我不明白，为什么喝普洱就是品茶的最高境界，而喝其他茶就不如喝普洱境界高呢？</p><p>　　周红杰：这大概要以这么几个方面去考虑：第一是悠远的历史；第二是博大精深的内涵；第三是独特的品质和功效。从历史的角度，云南有茶，已知有2100年之久，1700年前就有人工栽培的茶树。唐代《蛮书》始有云南茶的记载。而"普洱茶"一名起于明代，明代天启年间，普洱茶已达400担左右。到顺治十八年(1661年)，应达赖喇嘛的要求，一年运往藏区的注册销量就达3000担。后来在清人阮福《普洱茶记》中已有"普洱茶名遍天下"之说。从文化的角度，普洱茶文化是高原大山的文化，多样民族的文化，地域特色的文化，历史沉积的文化。哪-种茶的文化有如此之广博、深厚，有如此之丰富。再以品质和功效来看，普洱茶的品质特征是：外形色泽褐红，内质汤色红浓明亮，香气独特陈香，滋味醇厚回甘，叶底褐红。相对其他茶类，普洱茶同时具备茶性温和，不寒不火，不苦不涩，韵味绵长，耐泡，醇和等特点，适合各个年龄段、各种体质、各个地域的人们在各个季节饮用。此外，普洱茶还具有较强的药用功效，可以降血脂、降血压、抗动脉硬化、预防糖尿病、化解胆因醇、抑制脂肪肝等病症，常被人们称作"美容茶"、"减肥茶"、"益寿茶"、"窈窕茶"。普洱茶有三个鲜明的个性：1，独特的平和性；2．增强人体免疫系统的特性；3．调节人体机能的协调性。难道还有什么茶能在这些方面与普洱茶一争高下？难道这还不足以说明"喝普洱茶是品茶的最高境界"吗？</p><p>　　杭海路：我完全同意你的意见。不过，我还认为普洱茶中蕴含着许多哲理：比如，云南普洱茶品性温和，既不像绿茶那样清寒，又不似红茶浓烈，适合各个年龄段、各种体质、各个地域的人们在各个季节饮用等特点，充分体现了中国传统文化的"中庸"之道以及"合和"文化。</p><p>　　再比如，普洱茶韵味绵长，耐泡，耐贮存，且在一定的时间内越陈越香等特点，则很容易让人联想到做人和交友之道。难怪有人说，普洱茶是茶中至尊，茶中之人儒!</p><p>　　周教授，我最后想请教的问题是如何选购和品赏普洱茶。</p><p>　　周红杰：选购普洱茶，正确识别普洱茶的品质是极其主要的。要从原料、加工工艺、贮放环境条件三个方面综合去看。好的原料、精湛的加工工艺和科学的贮放方法制成的普洱茶，最能反映出普洱茶的陈韵。在选购时完全是通过感觉器官(视觉、味觉、嗅觉、触觉)对茶叶的外形、内质来作出客观的判断。即通过品尝、眼看、鼻闻、手摸来直接鉴别茶叶的质量高低，包括形状、规格和色、香、味、形来综合评判普洱茶。比如紧压茶，外观要整齐、干净、光泽自然、油润，里茶和外茶要一致。简单的方法还可以通过冲泡来试，只要掌据六个字：多量(5克左右)、长时(5分钟)、高温(滚汤的开水)。而且只要醒茶一次就喝。如果这样泡出来的茶红、浓、明、亮，味正，没有怪味，就可以购买。再往细里说，那就是我总结的十字要诀：甘、滑、醇、和、顺、柔、活、厚、粘、稠。如果品饮的普洱茶具备这些特点，那就是好茶；反之，如果品饮中有麻、叮、判、刮、酸、苦、涩、燥、干、杂、怪、异、霉、辛、飘(浮)等特点，均为不好的普洱茶。</p><p>　　上面说到的十字要决，看似简单，但要真正领悟它，没有茶道高人的指点和大量好茶的浸润，以及自己的用心体验，只怕在短时期内很难得其要领。目前，在市场上流行只看包装，或只看外观，或只讲来源，没有科学的态度，不注重真正意义上的好普洱茶必须具备的特征、特性、人云亦云，这是很难买到、也很难喝到好普洱茶的。</p><p>　　周红杰简介：全球普洱茶十杰人物之一，云南农大普洱茶学院副院长，教授，硕士生导师，国家茶艺师高级考评员，云南"普洱茶研究"首席专家，中国国际茶文化研究会副秘书长。</p>'

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'周红杰：普洱茶不一定是越陈越香、越陈越好_茶商茶农_中华普洱茶网'

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'/chashangchanong/a-11877-[page].html'

''

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