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'嘎达娜最后一次运送普洱茶 结束了最后的马帮生涯'

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'普洱茶,马帮,普洱,茶叶,云南,澜沧江,茶马古道,贡山,思茅,北京,大叶茶,西双版纳,骡马,哈尼,京城,茶农,马队,茶树,祖辈,大儿媳'

'　　2005年5月，云贵交界的一条山路上，一支由11个民族43位马夫、120匹骡马组成的马帮正在行进，天黑前他们必须尽快赶到宿营地。天有些冷，藏族女锅头(领队)嘎达娜把搭在马背上的毯子拉下来披在身上。在这个队伍里，...'

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'<p>　　2005年5月，云贵交界的一条山路上，一支由11个民族43位马夫、120匹骡马组成的马帮正在行进，天黑前他们必须尽快赶到宿营地。天有些冷，藏族女锅头(领队)嘎达娜把搭在马背上的毯子拉下来披在身上。在这个队伍里，她是唯一的女人，六个马锅头之一。马锅头是马帮队的灵魂，掌握着马帮的起坐行止，吃饭的时候，又是掌勺分配食物的人，嘎达娜和这帮男人在一起，靠的是自己爽朗、坚强和能干。<br><img src=\'https://www.puerwang.cn/uploadfile/2018/0413/cd309bc6.jpg\' /></p><p>　　云南省贡山县赶马帮的人，没有不知道嘎达娜的。在她47岁的人生中，一大半是跟马帮走过来。有她在马帮队里，大家都感觉踏实。1999年后，随着交通的发展，运送茶叶、盐巴和日用品进藏或运送到外地，已经不需要她和她的马帮了，汽车卡车代替了她的马帮。都知道赶马帮苦，但那毕竟是她的祖辈传下来的营生方式，一下子改变了，她很失落。1999年，嘎达娜所在的最后一个国营马帮解散，她和同伴们一起转了岗。此后她以为就不再和马帮搭上边了。没想到，政府的人来找到了她，请求她在此出山去赶马帮。只不过这次不同，目的地是北京!她挑选了儿子和侄子同行。从家乡到普洱，她和她的贡山马帮队走了一个多月的时间，到普洱和等候他们的马队会合。马帮中年长的53岁，年少的19岁，分别来自彝、藏、傈僳、怒、布朗、哈尼、佤、普米、纳西、汉等几个民族，还有一个是摩梭人。进京的大马帮由贡山、宁蒗、施甸、腾冲、思茅、版纳等地的6支马队组成，从边境沿茶马古道一直向北走，这条路线注定了他们会历尽艰辛。</p><p>　　嘎达娜和她的马帮要演绎的是一场"瑞贡京城、重现明清两代云南普洱茶誉满京都"的历史场景，将茶叶运送到北京。她统领的马帮一开始走就有无数媒体跟着报道。但她没有任何伟大的想法，她之所以答应，全是为了大儿媳。大儿媳马上要生孩子了，需要钱。她还有一个实际的想法，让自己的小孙子能受到更好的教育。借着这趟活拍卖普洱茶的钱，还可以为贡山办一所希望小学。于是她便答应重操旧业。</p><p>　　普洱茶和普通茶叶一样，本来没有特别之处。让普洱茶身价倍增的是它发酵后的那种陈年清香味道，年头越久茶叶就越好。这种味道源于当时茶农的一个做法：为使茶叶在运输中不碎裂，茶农要往朝大叶茶上洒些清水。这些茶叶要运往内地，还要运往西藏其他地区。在这个过程中，大叶茶上的清水加上一路消耗的时间，使得茶叶完成了第一步冷发酵。接着，散茶被蒸压成饼，再外包被水浸湿的笋叶。马帮赶马走的时间更长，如经滇藏线到拉萨，全程约需100天。在漫长的赶运路上，大叶茶吸收了阳光雨露，清风吹拂，在马背上酝酿出一种陈香。大自然参与了这一制作过程，完成了普洱茶的最后一道工序--第二道冷发酵。</p><p>　　这个原本只是想让普洱茶不碎裂的做法，却让普洱茶因此出名。</p><p>　　普洱茶树的种植地在云南的思茅和西双版纳，古代居住在云南澜沧江两岸的少数民族有嗜采吃茶树的鲜叶和嫩芽的习惯，他们统称这些茶叶为"大叶子茶"。关于普洱茶的种植在商周时期就有了记载。"普洱"为哈尼语，意为水湾寨。澜沧江中下游的临沧、普洱、西双版纳这一区域不断发现的古茶树和古茶林，都充分证明这一区域正是茶的原生地，也是古濮人的世居之地。濮人就是今天生活在澜沧江中下游的佤族、布朗族、德昂族的先民。他们是茶最早的种植者和茶文化的传播者。史学大家方国瑜先生曾说："布朗族是世界上最早的茶农。"而居住在西双版纳基诺山乡的基诺族也在很早时就有了种茶的历史。将这些茶叶运送出去的路线，在民间称为"茶马古道"。茶马古道始于唐朝，当时内地和藏区以茶换马(包括用丝绸、瓷器、布匹换取土特产、药品等)的贸易路线已经逐渐在川藏和滇藏之间形成。而普洱茶开始走向全国和世界则是在清朝康熙年间。普洱茶被赋予各种文化经济收藏的意义，在中国市场激起千层浪花。却是在20世纪90年代，中国经济进人稳定快速发展的时期。当时，一批台湾茶人在台湾出版了普洱茶的书籍，回过神来的大陆看到了普洱茶会带来的市场效应，不仅出版了更加丰富的书籍，还有各类茶文化专刊，专门介绍普洱茶。并挖掘普洱茶的种种功能。普洱茶被赋予了种种文化价值，成为了一种特殊的、有文化意味的商品。街头巷尾那些"越陈越香"的茶馆如雨后雨后春笋，成为追求健康时尚生活方式人们的去处。</p><p>　　2003年，普洱茶的知名度达到了高潮。一场拍卖会，一饼普洱茶竟然以几十万到一百多万元不等，抢尽了拍卖市场的风头。说一饼普洱茶的价值可以与一个同样大小的金砖媲美也不过分。还有人开始用"一两百年普洱等价一两黄金"的说法来给普洱茶贴标签。一时间，普洱茶的收藏者、投资者、评论者，远远多过普洱茶的消费者。这种"普洱茶热"持续了好几年，普洱茶市场才逐渐从投资型向消费型转变，喝普洱的比重从以前不足一成，扩大到两成。普洱茶产业终于向健康方向发展。</p><p>　　2005年，普洱茶的产地云南，针对这股热潮，策划了一次商业文化色彩浓厚的行为艺术--"茶马古道进京城"。嘎达娜和她的云南大马帮队成为这个策划的实行者，出现了文中开头的那一幕。</p><p>　　160多年前，嘎达娜们的祖辈曾走过这条"茶马贡道"，并为清延进贡普洱茶。在交通发达的今天，她和马帮队的男人们承袭了和祖辈同样的方式，赶着骡马，靠双脚走进了仰慕已久的京城，从南到北掀起了"云南热"和"普洱茶热"。</p><p>　　这一趟，马帮走的艰难程度是嘎达娜马帮生涯中少有的。马帮队5月1日从普洱茶的故乡出发。不同于以往走的路，这次马帮走的是公路、铁路沿线，不再是山道，不断受惊的骡马四处狂奔乱跑，恶劣的气候险些让马队全军覆没。他们一路北上，穿过成都平原和长江水系，越过秦岭进入黄河流域，进入中国古丝绸之路的起点西安，他们用脚丈量祖国的名山大川，穿越6个省市，历时168天，最后越过长城，于10月18日抵达北京宣武区茶缘茶城。</p><p>　　马帮走京城给沿途省区带来了轰动效应，"马帮精神"在民间兴起。一位云南茶叶界人士所说："现在就是说普洱茶怎么怎么好，保健怎么怎么好，或者怎么样，但是大家对普洱茶并不了解，这次活动就是对普洱茶的一个绝好宣传了。"的确，许多人都因此了解了茶马古道、马帮、还有这些有着传奇经历的赶马人和他们民族的故事。</p><p>　　到北京后，嘎达娜听人说，在他们走过的那些省，仅仅和北京举行的普洱茶义卖就为"希望工程"捐款数额就达到400多万元时，她很惊讶，也很高兴。</p><p>　　2005年，嘎达娜他们运达北京尚未拍卖出去的普洱金砖茶被中央民族大学博物馆珍藏。</p><p>　　2007年4月8日，因普洱茶出名的思茅，改地名为普洱市。</p><p>　　2008年，普洱茶人选2008影响世界的中国力量品牌500强。文/梁黎</p>'

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'嘎达娜最后一次运送普洱茶 结束了最后的马帮生涯_普洱茶人物_中华普洱茶网'

'普洱茶,马帮,普洱,茶叶,云南,澜沧江,茶马古道,贡山,思茅,北京,大叶茶,西双版纳,骡马,哈尼,京城,茶农,马队,茶树,祖辈,大儿媳'

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''

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